Sep. 28--LODI -- The menu at the Saigon Grill fails to include the phrase 'some assembly required' for the variations of pho, the classic Vietnamese beef-and-noodle soup and unofficial national dish. Close to a quart of the scalding clear broth is accompanied by rice noodles, bean sprouts, thinly sliced rare beef, sliced green onions, chili pepper slices, a sprig of basil and a wedge of lime. You decide what and how much you want to add to the broth, turning the pho ($6.95) into a thick stew. Meanwhile, the newly opened Saigon Grill has assembled an impressive menu of Vietnamese cuisine. Some dishes are practically indistinguishable from Chinese fare, while others show their similarities with Thai food with an emphasis on grilled meats, cilantro garnishes and herbs such as lemongrass. Saigon Grill is on the site of a former Chinese restaurant, but extensive remodeling has left no hint of its predecessor. It is immaculate with modern Asian decor, plus two LCD TV screens tuned to news or sports channels. The unisex bathroom is spotless. Saigon Grill fills a dining niche in downtown Lodi. It's less than a block from the Lodi Stadium 12 cinema, next to a city parking lot and rounds out diners' choices of the growing number of restaurants in the city's entertainment district. It's the city's only Vietnamese restaurant and well worth a visit. The pho broth at the Saigon Grill is a basic beef broth with just a hint of a floral herb that lets you know it didn't come off a grocery store shelf. Although flank steak is the classic meat in pho, diners also can have their soup authentic style, a combination that includes beef tendon ($7.50). Other choices include meatballs and chicken. Appetizers range from deep-fried rolls ($4.75-$5.25) to shrimp grilled on a peeled sugar-cane skewer ($7.95). The crispy egg rolls ($5.25) were light, fresh and don't last long on a plate. The standard price for a rice plate with grilled pork, chicken or beef is $7.95, or $9.50 if you choose shrimp. During a recent visit, the chicken was flavorful with a sweet and salty marinade, if not slightly overdone, with a healthy serving of rice. A plate is enough to satisfy two diners if they're not too hungry. Sweet and sour chicken ($7.95) was no different at Saigon Grill than at most Chinese restaurants. It included chunks of pineapple, onion and green pepper, and the variation of sauce that typically leans more toward sweet than sour. The vegetable chow mein also leaned toward the Chinese style but lighter on sauce that allowed the flavors of mushrooms, snow peas, tofu, bok choy and broccoli to emerge. The Saigon Grill offers family-style dinners for up to $38.95 for four people, and entrees no more expensive than $12.95 (steaks or salmon). The menu includes 62 items, plus additional side orders and beverages that include tapioca and coconut milk drinks. A drink menu includes beers and local wines. Service is friendly, and drink refills are offered quickly. Although the restaurant is busy, diners can get in and out within an hour. Table service includes chopsticks as well as a fork and spoon. Perhaps the only things missing from the menu are smaller, lower-cost lunch servings. Questions? Comments? Contact Entertainment Editor Brian McCoy at (209) 546-8293 or bmccoy@recordnet.com. A copy of The Record's restaurant-review policy and recent reviews can be viewed on the Web at http://www.recordnet.com/apps/pbcs.dll/section?Category=ENT04
Copyright (c) 2006, The Record, Stockton, Calif.
Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Business
News.
For reprints, email tmsreprints@permissionsgroup.com, call 800-374-7985 or 847-635-6550, send a fax to 847-635-6968, or write to The Permissions Group Inc., 1247 Milwaukee Ave., Suite 303, Glenview, IL 60025, USA.
